Hello,

did someone try to paint 6mm with Games Workshops new Contrast Paints?

If yes - does it works?

Our Friend Thierry write about it HERE!

We googlelize his french texte :

"My friend Philippe told me a lot of good, besides he painted all his army 28mm with this new range of colors. Objective: to save time because these paintings are both paints and inks, having the qualities of one and the other.

I watched a lot of tutorials presenting the full range with different opinions and reviews. but nothing better than testing it yourself, so I bought some pots of these "Contrast".

The pots may seem relatively expensive compared to Citadel pots more "classic" (€ 6.30 against a little more than € 3.50 for others) but Contrast must make both the basis of color, thinning and darken the hollows hence their name: contrast. In fact, a pot must replace 3 usually used.

Normally, I paint on black undercoat, to make a white tunic, I first gray, then 50% gray and ivory, finally pure ivory on the crests. Imagine the time it can take .... there, under white coat and then a single pass of Contrast.

For my test, I chose to apply them on my new army 28mm, an antique army "Romans Bas Empire", plastic figurines from Gripping Beast.

Contrast paints working only on clear undercoat, I opted for one of the colors recommended by the brand: the Corax Withe. First little surprise, it is not a bright white but rather a very light gray ..... not serious, quite the contrary. I'm glad I did not take their other recommendation, the Gray Seer, which would have given too much underlay.

I chose the following colors:

In the "Contrast" range the result was obtained in a single pass.

Gulliman Flesh for the skin.
the Apothecary White for the tunic.
the Skeleton Horde for the pants.
the Gore-Grunta Fur for everything wood, leather and shoes.
the Black Templar for the hair
First observations, the paint covers well without actually "fuse", it is not the ink that tends to overflow. When in spite of everything, this is the case in some small places, I ironed a touch of paint Citadel "Gray Seer" which is equivalent to the "dark" part of the tunics.

Big quality, as the layer of paint is fine, it does not stink the figurine that keeps all its details. If the figurine teems with small details, hollow, reliefs the results obtained quickly will be all the more spectacular.

The distinctive colors on the tunic were made with Citadel paint "Screamer Pink", metal parts with "Boltgun Metal" and "Copper".

What I really liked was the rhythm given to the painting and the immediate side of the result. I spent more time waiting for drying (about 20 to 30 minutes for a color) than in painting time. So I think this range will favor series, me who usually painted "in the figurine".

Admittedly, the result is not of exceptional quality, but we quickly get a painted figurine for the game while keeping a spectacular rendering more than acceptable.

I will continue the few infantry that I have on hand, but the real next step to really judge the effectiveness of "Contrast" will be the painting of horses and riders"

I've tried it in 28mm, 15mm, and 6mm.

My thoughts are that it may be useful for horses in 6mm, but isn't precise enough for the men.  Back to the horses, I think while coverage is good, the surfaces are so small that I don't get as much contrast as I might like, but that's just my tastes.

In 15mm and 28mm, I have obtained similar results to Thierry. Passable, but not great, unless you give up the time savings and learn a whole new method of basically painting miniatures with watercolours.

I haven't tried painting Baccus 6mm figures, but 1/285 GHQ armor came out nicely, either contrast over white primer or even contrast over bare metal.  

Basically, I was planning on doing just one coat of paint, brushed on: it came out significantly nicer than airbrushing a single coat.

I have some baccus Napoleonics, but I imagine that the details are too small and close together for the contrast paints to work.

10MM warmaster scale seems good, though. 

I did, results are ok for me. However, at this scale it is far too much of a hassle to go touching up with the original primer, so for any colour that goes over a contrast paint I use "conventional" acrylics. For the metallic coulours, too. And I still gave them a wash with Agrax Earthshade. Bearing in mind that I am a very mediocre painter and that these were don​e with the three foot rule firmly in mind, here​ are some Baccus 6mm FPW German Jäger.

I do like the basing as it makes the figures, especially the skirmishers, stand out. I have also stopped using flock on my 6mm and smaller figures, preferring the textured and drybrushed base,