?Hi everybody, 

After 20 years without figurine for wargame, I'm back. Until now I have never paint 6mm those russsians are my first

The exercise is not as easy as expected, not really satisfy with my green. For now I use tamiya paint but I think order some Howard Hues

When painting 6mm I always follow the principle of 'Go light, Go bright', which includes the bases as well. Otherwise they can look very dark, especially at a distance.

I believe that Russian Uniform colour was a very dark, near bottle Green. I'd look at two shades lighter than this bottle green in order to make them better visually.. Bright Green from the Howard Hues range you mention with perhaps a final wash of Windsor and Newton Nutbrown ink?

Alternatively, you could try using an enamel filter over the existing green. Filters are very quick to apply; just brush on evenly but sparingly. There are videos online that show how to use filters. AK4162 or MIG420 are options to consider. The AK version is my preference, FWIIW.

Robert

I had a break in painting figures for nearly 30 years and it is a bit of challenge getting back in the swing especially with poorer eyesight and smaller figures. I tend to use Citadel paints (mostly) but make extensive use of the Coat d'arms and Wargames Foundry ranges for the more specific armour, clothing or horse colours. They are a lot easier to use than the old Humbrol enamels but in some cases do require 2 coats.

Thank gentlemen.

The pictures was very exposed. 

this one is less

I will try  Windsor and Newton Nutbrown ink thank

David what you need is magnifer, that change life!

Magnifier and a lovely big LED light. Game-changing!

Robert

I would STRONGLY suggest revisiting the technique.   I know I will ruffle feathers, but using a white undercoat is really hard work.   Try going with very bright shades over a black undercoat in order to achieve contrast and definition.   Have a look here to see what I am on about: https://baccus6mm.com/howtoguides/HOWTOPaint6mmfigures/

Yes having a magnifier is essential! I've been using a x5 one for several years and have two desk lamps on the painting table. Even with this and using 10/0 brushes my results are still best described as "well, most of that dab was very nearly in the right place". But en masse they pass off OK.

I would agree with Peter that a black undercoat works and does help to minimise the effects of poor painting or missing that bit.

Ok Peter, I will try with black

My preference is a white or light grey undercoat (feathers not ruffled at all, Peter). 'Missing that bit' has been significantly reduced by using the magnifier and bright natural LED lighting. I don't use washes on figures, though they work well with vehicles. The latter can be given a lighter than normal base colour, which is then enhanced rather than overwhelmed by the wash. 

These days I just paint WW1 figures, occasionally WW2. This does make the work easier. The figures can be sprayed (best option) or hand painted with an overall uniform colour. For the British, this is the slightly greenish khaki of WW1 (different from the British uniform colour of WW2); Germans field-grey; French horizon blue (if late war); Italians grey-green; etc. Some paint manufacturers produce these base colours specifically for WW1 figures now. When sprayed or painted on, they provide a nice base colour that is not too dark with the white or light grey undercoat. I then dab on the highlights in a much lighter colour. Dabbing is much easier than trying to paint up to or near a line/s. It requires a very fine point on the brush, hence the need for the high quality brushes that Peter sells or equivalent. The process is useful for highlighting areas like the forearms, arms (from forearm to shoulder, which I highlight separately from the forearms), thighs, lower legs, helmets, and those parts of the uniform that are visible between webbing, straps, belts, etc. For things like boots, rifle barrels, packs, water bottles, and forage bags, I use brush strokes to apply the base colour then dabs of a brighter colour to highlight. The bright highlights distract from any tendency to paint 'over the lines'.

When dabbing on highlights such as hands and faces, let the capillary action do the work of drawing the paint off the tip and onto the surface of the model. This means the lightest of touches with the brush, rather than trying to 'push' the paint onto the surface. When the brush tip touches the model, a small pool of paint will accumulate. It will have neat edges at this scale, with minimal effort. 

Here are a couple of examples. A white undercoat was used. The figures and gun were then sprayed with Russian green, except for the priest ;-). No wash has been applied to the figures. The field gun had a green wash applied, followed by highlights:

Robert